Cook’s Seafood homeports in Pleasanton at long last

Situated across from the Alameda County Fairgrounds and one traffic signal from Interstate 680, Cook’s Seafood is a welcome site for fair visitors and Tri-Valley residents.

“People come in and say, ‘I have been waiting for you,’” said Moises Bucio, chef and butcher at Cook’s, which opened in Pleasanton on May 12. “I tell them, ‘I have been waiting for you, too. Our menu is like the original Menlo Park location with fish and chips as the starring option, and we also offer grilled fish, clam chowder, tacos and more.”

The understated nautical decor reveals fish replicas and sailing knots in a shadow box on the blue-toned walls. Ordering at the counter and self-serve napkins and utensils reinforce the causal ambiance with inside and patio seating.

The multipart menu takes up three large panels on the wall. Pondering the menu can challenge new customers not hooked by fish and chips. According to general manager Ramalah LaBang, a customer recently asked for a New Orleans-style fried oyster sandwich. The clerk immediately tapped Bucio who prepared the sandwich

As JoEllen Lambert reviewed the menu, the counter clerk asked if this was her first visit. When Lambert concurred, the clerk offered a warm welcome. Later, Lambert told me, “I liked the chips in thick-cut, steak fries’ style, and the halibut and cod combo which tasted fresh and crispy.”

Bucio joined Cook’s Seafood Restaurant and Fish Market in Menlo Park in 2019. With a dozen years’ experience as a fish butcher at a Japanese market and then chef at Benihana, Bucio came on board to lead the second location in Pleasanton.

After filing original permits eight years ago, personnel changes in Menlo Park halted planning. Then COVID disrupted all restaurants. Meanwhile Bucio developed a serious health condition. With his medical team, and support from the owner and his wife Carmen, Bucio fully recovered in late 2024 and is pleased to greet patrons at the Koll Center Plaza location.

Selling and serving seafood since 1928, Cook’s has a cadre of vendors on several continents who know the restaurant’s quality standards.

“The fish arrives daily for both the market and kitchen. We inspect the fish three times and cook the crab and shrimp daily,” Bucio said. In season, local Dungeness crab is a specialty along with halibut, swordfish, and organic salmon farmed in net-pen ocean waters.

With fish and chips taking center stage, a debate exists on whether cod, halibut, or prawns is best.

Jeff Justeson of Pleasanton enjoyed his cod and chips, sampled my halibut, and pronounced cod the winner. After living in London for five years near a fish and chip shop, I preferred the cod, the most common British option. An Irish native, my neighbor John liked both the cod and shrimp though he prefers a thinner crust. Malt vinegar, a traditional condiment, delighted him.

The Cook’s locations apply a common restaurant practice to prepare fish and chips.

“We sell over 300 pieces of fish each day. Each morning, we blanch the fish to pre-cook it. After the pieces cool, we can prepare the orders faster while preserving the texture of the fish,” Bucio said. As for the chips, LaBang noted that guests can substitute coleslaw, potato salad or side salad for free or upgrade to onion rings or sautéed vegetables.

Many seafood lovers prefer grilled over fried fish. The menu contains two disparate sections with grilled options. The left menu panel under “Specials” lists a grilled salmon sandwich and nearby is a picture of grilled halibut and chips. In addition to the salmon, scallops, petrale sole and catfish on the “Other Entrées” section of the same panel, cod is also available fried or grilled.

The center panel lists sandwiches such as Dungeness crab and two burgers with lettuce and tomatoes, either salmon or halibut. Like a ground beef burger, the fish burger contains minced fish. The cook applies a light cornmeal coating and then grills the patty. The grilled salmon sandwich, at a higher price point, is a fish filet.

Cook’s serves house-made crab cakes and lobster rolls. The gluten-free tacos come with grilled or fried fish. The vegetarian version brims with sautéed fresh vegetables.

Pasta lovers can order fettuccine Alfredo with seafood or vegetables. Crab or shrimp Louie salads, Mexican style prawn cocktail platters, and clam chowder or cioppino in a cup or bowl are menued. Except for burger buns, the bread comes from Berkeley’s long-established Acme Bread Co. and is available for sale. The pickle-forward tartar, cocktail and Louie sauces are house-made.

After Justeson finished his fish and chips, I asked what he might order next time. “I will spin the wheel. I love all seafood.”

After a warm day at the fairgrounds, the small yet well-curated list of beverages is reasonably priced. Sodas are $4; the average price of American and Mexican beer is $8. There are four white wines including Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc and three red wines. Though not on the menu, ask for the 187ml Flybird agave wine-based Margaritas for a refreshing $9.

Eager to cast his style onto the Pleasanton menu, Bucio said, “Later this summer, look for the addition of more pasta options, poke and ceviche.”

Editor’s note: A previous version of this story misspelled the name of chef Moises Bucio. The Pleasanton Weekly regrets the error.

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